Follow the Sento Goodwill Ambassador and Feel the Charm of the Bath!
Stephanie, a French Woman, Turns into a Japanese Sento Guide
Text/Stephanie Crohin
Editor/ 郭慧
Picture provided/Stephanie Crohin
If you want to experience Japanese culture in a deeper way, you should go to a sento yourself. A visit to a sento offers not only a relaxing experience, but also access to a precious cultural heritage. For me, a sento is a place that appeals to all the senses.
After the World War II, many Japanese households still did not have their own bathrooms. Visiting the sento every day and taking a hot bath there was part of the daily routine for them. Nowadays, as most Japanese homes are equipped with bathrooms, the reason for going to a sento has changed. Bathing is only one of the reasons why people go to a sento; the real purpose of visiting a sento is to enjoy the unique healing feeling of a large bathhouse. Besides health and beauty purposes, some people go to a sento to socialize or to enjoy the artistic ambience of the bathhouse. The sento is a place to relax not only your body, but also your mind. It is like a small hydrotherapy center, and each sento has its own history and stories, which makes it original and unique.
Stephanie Crohin has been visiting Japanese sentos for years. She is the first official goodwill ambassador nominated by the Japan Sento Cultural Association.
Visit the three major types of sento and experience its charm
The word sento (銭湯) first appeared in 1401, where "sen" stood for a unit of currency and "to" meant hot water. In Japan during the Warring States period, you had to pay 1 sen to take a bath. Translated into today's currency, the price of taking a bath at a sento in Tokyo at that time was about ¥200; nowadays, it is ¥400. In fact, the price varies from prefecture to prefecture and is agreed upon locally. For example, in Tokyo, you would pay ¥480, Kyoto ¥430, Niigata ¥420, etc. Currently, you can find more than 500 sentos in Tokyo. Sentos are usually run by families and passed down from generation to generation. Many sento owners are now in the 3rd or 4th generation of their families. I even have visited a 200-year-old bathhouse run by the 10th generation.
There are different characteristics of Japanese sento. After visiting countless sentos, I would classify them into 3 major categories. The first category is the vintage and beautiful "old fashioned sento", which gives you a strong sense of nostalgia as soon as you step inside. These sentos seem to be in their most beautiful form, stuck in the past. Looking up, you may see a beautiful mural depicting Mount Fuji or a similar local landscape, chosen by the owner or previous generations. Old fashioned sentos are often decorated with a lot of artifacts such as antique blowers, old posters, and so on. I wish these sentos could be considered as the treasures of Japanese architecture and be preserved forever. The second category is "modernized sento". Most of these sentos were renovated in the 1980s or 1990s, which naturally remind people of the mainstream styles in those one or two decades, such as European landscapes or the popular art at that time. In this type of sento, you may see fancy or exaggerated designs. Few people would expect such displays to be found in Japanese sento. The third category is "designer sento". These sento are often renovated by architects with a comprehensive modern design. Some of them are inspired by European influences, while others show a chic, elegant style and embody a modern Japanese aesthetic.
＠Hasunuma onsen , Tokyo
Step into the sento bath and enjoy a healing moment for the body, mind and soul
Other than the three categories, I have also found three major charms beyond body cleansing in my experience visiting sento, which I call "health and beauty", "community" and "art".
In terms of "health and beauty", a visit to a sento not only cleanses your body, but also rejuvenates your mind and body. From my personal experience, I am less prone to catching a cold since I have been frequenting the sento. Even in case of a cold, I can recover quickly. I also add a series of stretches during and after the bath to help my body become more flexible and even improve my sleep quality. In addition, we can focus on taking care of our bodies because when soaking in the sento, there is no social media, no messages, no work, no outside distractions, just like being in your own bubble. The tranquil sound of the water flowing, the resonance of the tiles, the fluttering of the bubbles, and the sound muffled by the steam are all details that allow the soaker to enter a state of perfect contemplation. Whether it's a bad day at work, a fight with your husband, or any other negative feelings, a trip to the sento can shed these awful thoughts off your shoulders and make you feel relaxed. For four years, I have been working at the sento. As a receptionist, I can see for myself that their skin is getting fairer and brighter, and they often leave with a smile of satisfaction from the bottom of their hearts.
More importantly, in my opinion, this traditional public bath has a positive impact on young people's body image. In the sento, most people look at others benignly. There is no judgment or comparison, and what is important is that you are in the presence of real bodies. It's a breath of fresh air compared to the perfect bodies that are constantly exposed in the media or on social media. For example, when a young woman goes to a sento bath, she is less concerned about her body because she feels that all the other women around her share her imperfections. Even though they have unique bodies, they all fit, and there is nothing wrong with it. In the bathhouse, shame does not exist. This young woman should feel accepted, and the more she repeats the experience, the faster she will come to terms with her body image. Bathing in a sento is a great way to leave behind personal insecurities, but also to slowly accept your appearance. I believe that all women, no matter what their age, need this kind of security.
For me, the sento intimately reminds us to release the pressure that comes with the "perfect image" of social media. This sense of relaxation comes not only from the bath, but also from the people. The sento is a magical community where you feel "at home".
Go to Sento to "Socialize Naked" and Feel the Human Touch at the Local
Next, in terms of "community," I think the sento is one of the best places to meet local people and spend valuable time together. There are many ways to have fun at sento, whether you are looking for connections (I made many of my contacts in the Japanese workplace at sento!) ) or if you want to enjoy a little peace and quiet and communicate with the people around you in silence. For first-time bathers, I recommend simply saying "hello" as you enter the room. This will attract a friendly smile and people will be kind enough to help you if you are bewildered. Whenever I visit a new city in Japan, I make use of sento's community strengths to ask regulars or store owners for suggestions on interesting places to visit, things to do, their favorite local restaurants, etc. No guidebook or website is as authentic as the information I receive in the baths!
In addition, sento is also important to the neighborhood. Many of the daily visitors to the sento are single or elderly people. If a regular doesn't show up all day, someone will check in to make sure they're okay. I have a friend who is a 4th generation sento owner. He calls elderly or frail customers on hot summer days, and also provides solutions for those who have no way to get help.
Nowadays, the role of sento has gone far beyond the basic scope of bathing services, and such a social function is often underestimated. The Japanese phrase "裸の付き合い" literally means "naked social interaction" but can also be translated as "completely honest relationship". It reflects a simple fact: sharing time with each other naked. That is, sento welcomes everyone in, as long as you are respectful of others (especially the elderly). Here, there are no social distinctions, whether rich or poor, employer or employee, in the sento, we share the same values.
＠Matsu no yu , Tokyo
＠Teikoku-yu , Tokyo ＠Konparu-yu , Ginza , Tokyo
Not just a Bathing Place, but Also a Treasure Trove of Art
In addition to "health and beauty" and "community", sento's charm lies in its eye-catching and beautiful art. There are many precious artworks hidden in sento, such as architectural structures, gardens, and the small tiles found in bathrooms. You can still find traditional “miyazukuri” buildings, mainly in the Kanto area surrounding Tokyo. “Miyazukuri” (宮造) are constructions built in the same way temples and shrines are: with an all-wood structure; very high ceilings (approximately 8 meters) that let the steam rise. The similarity between these different types of constructions is related to a belief that grew after the "Great Kanto Earthquake" in the 1920s. Temples and shrines being a symbol of peace and serenity, people thought that having the same symbolic constructions would relieve the hearts of the visitors.
Inside the baths, there are often wonderful works of art such as murals, tile art, and mosaics. The murals in the bath are called Penki-e (ぺンキ絵) meaning “wall paint” and only three artists, Mr. Kiyoto Maruyama (86 years old), Mr. Morio Nakajima (76 years old) and Ms. Miyuki Tanaka (38 years old), are still depicting them. It usually takes a full day for the artist to finish a complete mural, which needs to be scheduled on a closed day. Because of the humidity, the murals have to be re-painted every one to three years.
As for the theme, it is very common to see murals featuring Mount Fuji in traditional sento. Other than Mount Fuji you can enjoy various sceneries, in particular depictions of the area. For instance, inside a Kagoshima sento (at the extreme south of Kyushu) you won’t find Mount Fuji but Sakurajima, the region’s notorious volcano. In Niigata, I have seen beautiful mosaics inspired by the traditional dance of Sado Island, which is located in the same prefecture. Exploring sento across Japan is also a way to spice up any trip by discovering new places. In some sentos, you may see replicas of famous paintings by artists such as the surrealist René François Ghislain Magritte or the French painter Pierre-Auguste Renoir, often covering the tiles. Somewhere else, you may appreciate sceneries from overseas, such as dreamy castles in Switzerland or even Hawaiian resorts... each sento interior has a different story to tell, you will always be surprised.
＠Kagomma Onsen , Kagoshima
＠Tamataku-yu , Niigata
＠Tamataku-yu , Niigata
Since the late 1960s, the "sanitary purpose" of sento has become outdated and has begun to decline dramatically in number, as most modern homes have fully functioning bathrooms. The good news is that over the past few years, thanks to various events and media coverage on the subject of sento, people have rediscovered its existence. I am constantly meeting new guests who decide to try sento, and I am even seeing more and more families enjoying sento together. So far, I have introduced sento to many Japanese and foreigners, and all of them have expressed their desire to re-experience it. In the past 4 or 5 years, there are some young people who consider working at the sento and even want to be the owner to preserve the history of the sento. I think they are really brave, and thanks to them and all the people who support sento, it looks like a bright future is just around the corner. Sento is a wonderful part of Japan's cultural heritage that deserves to be known around the world. I will continue to do my best to share the beauty of each sento with you.
BOX／Follow Stephanie to Soak in the Sento!
1. Chiyo no yu
Chiyo no yu is a traditional and very colorful sento. I really enjoy all the beautiful tiles and paint.
The majestic mural of the Fuji-san has been realisated by Nakajima san and has the particularity to be seen from both of the men and lady’s bathroom.
? 4 Chome-19-7 Hirai, Edogawa City, Tokyo
2. Ichi no yu
Ichi no yu located in Mie prefecture is a very charming sento, truly popular among the locals and the travellers. Ichi no yu is the perfect image remaining of the Showa retro period.
? 1762 Uenonishihinatamachi, Iga, Mie
3. Yokohama onsen Kogane-yu
Kogane-yu is an amazing and traditional sento. You can enjoy not only the view of Mount Fuji here in the bath, but also Osaka Castle, Miyajima Torii and other views of Japan. While soaking comfortably in the bath, it is as if you have visited many tourist destinations.
? 245-1 Bukkocho, Hodogaya Ward, Yokohama, Kanagawa
At Yokohama onsen Kogane-yu, customers can enjoy the sights and social customs of Mount Fuji, Osaka Castle, Miyajima Torii and other parts of Japan.
4. Hasunuma onsen
Hasunuma onsen is an extremely popular onsen with Taisho Roman-style decorations inside, where you can admire many artworks in the bath and feel the fashionable ambience.
? 6 Chome-16-11 Nishikamata, Ota City, Tokyo
The interior of Hasunuma onsen is impressive with its Taisho romantic period style, vintage and ornate.
5. Yoshi no yu
Yoshi no yu was renovated in 2020, but with a special focus on preserving the original charm of the sento, a perfect blend of traditional and modern sento. Its bathrooms feature beautiful mosaic tile floors that were put together one by one by hand! After bathing, you can relax in a charming Japanese garden and enjoy the night time illumination.
? 4 Chome-23-2 Hirai, Edogawa City, Tokyo
Yoshi no yu is known for its beautiful mosaic tile floors. You can also relax in the charming Japanese garden after the bath.
6. Okura-yu
Okura-yu is a designer’s sento that reminds me of a luxury ryokan. It is truly like going to a spa with the Japanese delicate interior design. From the ceiling to the wonderful golden mosaic tiles of Fuji san art, fine details are everywhere in this remarquable sento. The bathtubs in the middle of the bathroom are very spacious and I really like this rare design in the area around Tokyo.
? 522 Kisomachi, Machida, Tokyo
7. Okada-yu
With a modern design and a beautiful natural light inside the bathroom, Okada-yu is an elegant sento nicknamed “botanical sento’ because of it’s green paradise decor composed of many species of plants.
You will love the hinoki bath, the nano bubble bath and the rotenburo on the men's side.
? 3 Chome-43-2 Sekibara, Adachi City, Tokyo
＠Konparu-yu , Ginza , Tokyo
Profile／Stephanie Crohin
Born in the south of France, Stephanie has a strong interest in Japanese literature. In 2008, Stephanie came to Japan as an exchange student and had her first encounter with Chinyu culture. Since 2012, she has been living in Japan and is now a writer, photographer, lecturer and journalist. She is also the first official goodwill ambassador nominated by the Japan Sento Cultural Association. and the author of Sento is a Small Art Museum.